Tucked quietly into a
Handal’s Cheese Shop of Healdsburg (
Center Street
dark, cool cheese sanctuary that hits you with a blast of unmistakably funky
cheese smell when you walk in. Yep. This is the place. Piled high on the
counters and in the refrigerator are dozens of slices–from runny and gooey to
blue, truffled and wine-soaked. I try not to swoon.
Doralice, who’s a bit reserved, opens up when you start talking cheese. She’s
just one of those people who just adores what she does, having cut her teeth in
the restaurant biz and most recently working with the rock star cheese gals at
Cowgirl Creamery.
She blasts through Werlin’s list. Most of the cheeses (or very close
facsimiles) are in-store. Fortunately, it’s cheese season, she tells
me. Cheese has a season? Apparently goat cheese is at
its prime and many of the other cheeses just happen to be at their best at this
time of year.
insanely small-production artisan cheeses from France, Italy and Portugal.
Cheese Shop of Healdsburg,
Center Street
-
Brillat-Savarin: An indulgent French triple-cream Brie.
I ate an entire wedge on the ride back from Hburg and don’t regret it for an
instant. Cheese Shop: In stock, $20lb.
-
La Tur, Caseficio Dell’Alta Langa,
goat’s milk cheese. Cheese Shop: Doralice suggests the Robbiolo, a cow, goat
& sheep’s milk cheese. $30lb
-
Poacher: One of my absolute favorite cheeses, this is a cheddar-style English
cheese that has an intense, sharp flavor like browned butter. Cheese Shop: In
stock, $28lb.
-
Comte: A rare French cheese that has some similar
qualities to Gruyere. Nice for melting. Cheese Shop: Currently out of Comte,
but comes in regularly. Several cave-aged Gruyere’s in stock, $17lb.
-
Formaggio al
Tartufo,
black truffles. Cheese Shop: Try a Sardinian truffled sheep’s cheese, $30lb
-
Testun al Barolo: Love this cheese that’s aged in
Nebbiolo and Dolcetto grape must, giving it a purple sheen and a little crunch
on top. Cheese Shop: Testun Ubriaco from
$24lb
-
Queijos Serra de Estrela,
milk cheese with incredible flavor. Cheese Shop: Try Torta La Serena, a similar
cheese from
$24lb
-
Cayuga Blue, Lively Run Goat
Cheese Shop: Doralice recommends one of her favorites, the Bayley Hazen Blue
from
at $21lb.




