Lasagna is not supposed to weigh four pounds per serving. Nor should it do double duty as a door stop or require a steak knife to cut.
Mine inevitably is characterized by all three of those faults plus razor-sharp shards of burnt cheese and mushy pasta. Laugh it up, but I’ve had even worse versions at a number of restaurants that shall remain nameless. Not even Garfield would eat that stuff..
The reason for this, of course, is that great lasagna takes time to do properly. Lots and lots of time, from rolling out fresh sheets of pasta to house-made béchamel and patiently waiting for it to cook (and cool just enough to hold firm). So far, the only guy we’ve found ’round these parts who truly does it right is Peter Lowell’s Chef Seamus Guevara.
The pasta impresario crafts the lightest, airiest lasagna in Wine Countrydom. Seven-plus layers thick, it’s a tasty stratum of pasta, cream sauce, zesty tomato sauce and fluffy ricotta. The ingredients are in line with the restaurant’s fundamental organic, seasonal, produce-centric offerings (they offer some fish selections, but otherwise are vegetarian).
For this version, no meat. No gloppy blobs of uncooked mozzarella. Just a sprinkling of fresh Parmesan and torn basil on top.
“It’s amazing. The best lasagna I’ve had,” gushed a local chef who tipped me off. Until proven otherwise, I concur.
But don’t expect it on the menu every day. Typically the lasagna shows up at Seamus’ whim, but he’ll be making it Friday, Saturdays and Sundays just for you, BiteClubbers. At least for a while. Making it even more elusive and special.
(If you don’t want to be disappointed, call ahead to see if lasagna’s on the menu. Guevara always has a daily pasta special, but it’s not always lasagna.)
Peter Lowell’s, 7385 Healdsburg Ave., Sebastopol, 707.829.1077.
As far as making it yourself I go to Pasta Etc. on Farmers Lane. They will roll out the Pasta sheets to conform to the size of your pan.When I go there they also have stacks of orders for a lot of the restaurants in Sonoma County. When it says homemade pasta on the menu it doesn’t say who’s home.
Simply Delicious off Stony pt rd. has an awesome meat lasagna! The pizzas and salads are great too.
The world’s best lasagna was the one my German mother used to make. Wish I’d have bugged her more about giving me the recipe!
Hardly. My “Uncle Joe” makes my lunch most days and, generally speaking, he’s a pretty decent chef! Save my “going out” meals for dinner.
Slummin’ it these days Woj?
Well, for those of you who aren’t going out much these days….I’d like to add that the Trader Joe’s frozen vegetable lasagna is pretty darn good. Cheap, microwaveable, and relatively healthy (little high in sodium, though) Just had it for lunch today!
I think “proper” lasagna depends on the region, how your family made it etc…Different strokes for different folks. When we visited family in Manza, they made lasagna light on sauce but MANY layers of almost paper thin pasta. Alot different than the Ital-American version (kinda like pizza)
Thanks Michelle! Don Taylor has not received any money from me in at least 5yrs. As for Italian, i prefer LoCocos. Service is great & a friendly staff!
Since moving to S’pol we’ve become regulars at Peter Lowell’s. While I’ve never had problems with the food I’d concur that it’s become better since Seamus took over the kitchen. As far as the comments about Lowell, I find them completely at odds with my impression leading me to believe that Dick is appropriately named.
First off, when Orsi’s was around, it was the best. He made it with fresh spinach layeres, fresh home meade beshemel and a meat sauce to die for. After all of the layers were done, then he baked it until the Romano and Parmesean cheesed left a slightly dark brown color.
THE BEST LASAGNA EVER!!!!!!!!!!!
Dick’s comments above would strike me as completely absurd if I hadn’t checked out the restaurant from the beginning. Early in the run, it was occasionally very rough. But the partnership between Lowell and Guevara has really been fruitful: creative local food, a strong staff, and yes, a really fine lasagna. don’t let the static get to you
LOL @ Zolo’s comment about Don Taylor…sooo true! Smug owners can definitely ruin my appetite!
The owner is Lowell Sheldon. I’m not sure who some of you overheard talking, but from my experience, he’s a pretty chill guy. I’m fine with folks expressing their opinions, but let’s keep it civil.
(Because trust me, I was a total d-bag this weekend to someone and I’m still feeling bad about it.)
This is the latest that I know…
http://biteclubeats.com/2009/03/wild-foxx.html
what is the scoop on the new Wild Fox Restaurant, just opened on Farmers Lane? Is it another Baker Sq type or what. Thanks and Congrats on your recent Award!!
From the comments about the chef, i wonder if Peter Lowell is cousins with Don Taylor?
It sounds like the recipe from Marcella Hazan’s book. I make that lasagna and love it, but I do know some people don’t consider that lasagna. They honestly believe that it must have multi layers of cheese and lord knows what else and it should weigh 5 lbs in the stomach or it just isn’t what they think of as lasagna.
Patricia
Having gone there several times since it opened, I have to say that Peter Lowell’s has improved recently. The pizzas are better than Rosso’s. Similar in quality to Scopa, but quite a bit less expensive. Even if you were disappointed in the early days, give it a try now, you won’t sorry. And yes, the lasagna is great.
I don’t understand writing a comment that is bitter and abusive. If you want to offer critical commentary, do so. If you don’t like a restaurant, don’t go. Peter Lowell’s is an extremely pleasant oasis any time of day.
The food is uneven but mostly on the good side. Peter is quirky and I enjoy watching him interact with the clientele.
I would go there just to eat food prepared by someone named Seamus Guevara!
my sebastopol friends continue to rave about peter lowell’s, but every single time i’ve gone, i’ve been disappointed. the food, while fine, pales in comparison to scopa and diavola. and unfortunately, i agree with dick above: the owner is ridiculously pretentious and arrogant. perhaps if you’re already friends with him, you may have a different experience, but i’ve watched him play the too-cool card with many patrons.
to be fair: i haven’t had the lasagna, and i’ve heard good things about guevara.
I just experienced the lasagna at Peter Lowell’s for a mothers day dinner and I have to say it was the best lasagna I’ve ever had. It was beautifully presented, the taste was a rich blend of all the fresh ingredients. The thing that really stuck out was how fluffy and light it was. Lasagna is usually a heavy food that leaves you feeling sluggish, not with this dish.
On a separate note, the pizza is also to die for. Wafer thin crust, fresh tomato sauce, a bit of pesto drizzle and a hint of cheese.
I’ve had the Lasagna at Peter Lowell’s several times and it truly is amazing. Consistently excellent as is the rest of the menu. I frequently eat the pizza, which comes out thin & crispy each time, after being fired in their brick oven.
Oh, and regarding Dicks comment above, I REALLY can’t imagine him talking about his 15+ year old Japanese compact car!
I also tried Peter Lowell’s- and to be honest- it stunk. I love lasagna, and am always trying out different places to find the best. I recently decided if you want great lasagna, you make it yourself. With fresh sauce from last year’s batch of tomatoes, and different cheeses every time- it comes out mouth watering.
People- stay at home and make your own-it’s not hard, less expensive, and please don’t follow Heather’s advice on this one.
How do I put this?
First of all, the lasagna at LoCoco’s is probably the best in the county. I have not had the lasagna at Peter Lowell’s, but I HAVE been there. Four times.
The first two times were laugh-out-loud bad. Peter swarming our table, mentioning the car he drives, how awesome he is, and what a great restaurant he runs… all while the food… sucked. A “macro-bowl” without rice… or any other protein? Pour me all the bio-dynamic wine you’ve got, it doesn’t fill me up like food… and even your food doesn’t do that.
The other two times I went with people who would not have ever been if I didn’t make them.
“Look,” I said. “If the food is no good, it will definitely be worth the experience. You HAVE to get a load of the owner…”
And they did. What a d-bag.
Heather. I’m sure you had a great meal. Still. Best lasagna? Where the F do you eat Italian in this county???