Before there were grapes, there were apples. Acres and acres of Gravenstein apple orchards dotting Sonoma County like our own little Eden.
Sadly, most of the ancient fruit trees are now gone. This is Wine Country, after all. But in pockets throughout West County, a few of the old Gravenstein trees remain. Precious heirlooms in places like Dutton Ranch, where 100 year old trees still bear fruit.
But applesauce and cider seem too humble an end to such historic fruit. Enter winemaker Guy Davis, who is distilling several varieties of the historic apples from the ranch into an ultra-premium apple brandy called Apple-Ation (a play on the term for distinct grape-growing regions). It’s a labor-intensive process of hand-picking and sorting the apples, then fermenting them (with seeds, skin and stems), then distilling the essence of the apple mash and finally oak-barrel aging.
It’s strong stuff at 80-proof, but even straight, there’s no mistaking the powerful apple aroma and flavor. The limited-production spirit made an impressive debut recently in a specialty cocktail made by Cyrus Restaurant for Taste of Sonoma. It’s just the epitome of fall, with the crisp-sweet flavor and smell of ripe apples.
Apple-Ation Brandy is available through the winery for $35, but only 1800 bottles were made, so they’re go fast. 52 Front Street, Healdsburg, 707-433-3858.
MAKE THIS YOURSELF
Cyrus Bartender Erika Frey made a home version of the Gravenstein Appelation that’s a bit simpler than the restaurant version (that includes things like yuzu).
1 1/2 oz. Appelation Brandy
1 oz. Gravenstein Apple Juice
3/4 oz. Fresh Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Apple Ginger Gastrique (recipe below)
Shake all ingredients together and strain into a martini glass or pour over ice.
Apple Ginger Gastrique (for the home)
1 cup sugar
½ cup or 4 oz of Apple Cider Vinegar
1 cup or 8 oz of Gravenstein Apple Juice
3″ nub of ginger root peeled and crushed flat
Add all ingredients to a stainless or non-reactive pan and bring to a boil making sure all sugar is dissolved. Lower heat to medium low and reduce to a medium to thick syrup. Strain to remove ginger and let cool. Yields about a half cup.
Apple-Ation is fabulously intense with that not to be missed Gravenstein perfume. Reminds me of the French eau-de-vie where the aroma is jut as heady as the sip! Used some with a gravenstein apple tarte tatin…WOW!!! Congrats to Cyrus, Guy and Dutton Ranch for a WINNING combo!!
And to think I have one of Guy’s original samples! Thanks for sharing your inspiration with me, in its infancy in ’06-ish. It was great then, it’s going to be fantastic now!
Signed,
~an admirer
p.s. I still have your unlabeled bottle and cork… now empty of course!
I am looking forward to buying a bottle of this and using it in a variety of ways, as well as drinking it. It sounds as if it has a lot of potential and goes back to Sonoma County roots.
If you want the best brandy in the world made in Ukiah,CA drink Germain-Robin. Caution, if you try this you will never go backto anything else.
Just a fan.
Best…
Also check out Graton Ridge Cellars’ Apple Port – yum!
Love the cocktail from made with Appleation made by Cyrus.
I enjoy the Appleation in many ways and I am glad to see it being recognized~
Thanks,
Sheana