Chef Jude Affronti, who hails from top SF & NY eateries along with stints at nearby Charcuterie and Santi, has opened his namesake restaurant at the former Palette Art Cafe space in Healdsburg.
The young chef is both top toque and owner of what he describes as a “true wine bar” serving dozens of unique and small-production wines by the glass along with Mediterranean-style tapas. Affronti says he’s worked hard on his opening menu of Bits (olives, deviled eggs), Bites (bruschetta, panini and flakey tartines), Salads (Nicoise, Caesar), Small Plates (charcuterie, pate) and a few Bigger Plates (smoked duck, parchement-wrapped petrole, housemade sausage with polenta), but it doesn’t take long to realize that there’s a serious lack of fire-power. Mainly because Affronti’s inherited a cafe-kitchen without any.
(image: Trout escabeche with vegtables in a tangy marinade ($5.25) and apple, gorgonzola and muhammara tartine ($4.75)
With available restaurant space in Healdsburg at a premium, Affronti took on the pared-down setup of the existing kitchen which relied a TurboChef (a small, but high-powered convection oven) and induction burners rather than the roaring gas-powered stoves and ovens (which require a lot of permitting and expense) of most commercial kitchens. That means a no-go for frying, grilling or sauteing meat onsite — no minor issue.
“It’s a clean, well-located spot that I want to transform,” he said. “And, I would put my dishes against anything coming out of a bigger kitchen.” He skirts the shortcomings with oven-friendly preparations, a panini press and smoked or cold meats, and says he’s got more creative ideas in the works.
Despite the limits, it’s clear that the quiet, off-street enclosed courtyard and sleek interior has potential. And Affronti’s dishes are imaginative for someone working with so little. But as appetites look toward heartier dishes of braised and sauteed meats in cooler months, the restaurant has its work cut out.
Bottom line: Jude has the chops to live up to expectations, but can the kitchen live up to him?
Affronti Courtyard Dining and Wine Bar: 235 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 431-1113. Open Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesday) for lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch.
I will try this place out. It sounds just like the new Vine Tastings in Windsor on the Town Green. They have the same kind of set up but their chef William Oliver puts out great food flights of three different things for 13.50 and you can go by his suggestion or pick your own. I think give Jude a chance. It is a different kind of kitchen
The food here is great. The wine selection is great. The decor and staff need some polishing, but my word–stop the bickering and be nice to a talented, good man (Jude Affronti) who’s just started a unique business with a lot of heart in a terrible economy.
I tried Affronti last night and was excited by the beautiful outdoor space and impressive redecorating. If only the rest of the experience had lived up to the setting! I’m hoping someone from Affronti will read what is written here and make the needed changes so this great new place can succeed.
Out waitress, a sweet young thing, knew absolutely nothing about the menu or winelest and seemed absolutely nonplussed by our questions. She would go ask someone and come back with much less than satisfactory or complete answers.
Then came the food. The bruschetta was one small piece of bread, perhaps 3″ by 5 “, sitting by itself on a bare plate with a price of $2.75. But even worse, the tartine, a very small one indeed, was also alone on a plate for $4.75! Come on, you’ve got to give better value than this!. Charge more, if needed, for a bigger portion! This serving size was pathetic!
The duck rillettes, in contrast, was a decent serving, nicely plated with lovely pickled vegetable, and delicious. No complaints here.
The wine list was nice and not overpriced. Unfortunately, both the wine list and menu had a number of misspellings. Proofreader needed!
I would really love to see this place succeed and hope they will make the needed corrections.
I’m glad you had a good experience. But darling, I do understand that it is a wine bar and spent time talking to the chef before writing this piece because I wanted to make sure I understood what his concept was so I didn’t ding him unfairly. Affronti has the chops (which I said in the article), but he’s facing an uphill battle by working in a kitchen that really doesn’t showcase the breadth of his talents.
If I’m going to a restaurant that before opening advertised that they’d have short ribs on the menu, only to find out that most of the food is a prepared as baked or roasted, panini or cold preparations, that changes my expectations pretty significantly.
I think its better to let people know what they’re walking into. They can judge whether that’s something they like or not. Based on my experience, I think I was more than generous in my assessment.
Aggravated? Yes, I think its in poor judgment to go to any restaurant in its first week of opening and write any kind of review while they are still getting their feet wet. I also think that the writer should be aware of the concept, as a wine bar with food. To have one of the very first reviews written about the restaurant be one that could potentially deter its readers from going should not happen. Writing an article about the fact that it is open and a quick blurb about what it is would be a good thing instead of attacking the quality of the food and kitchen. As a good friend of a few of the front of house staff, I have been in twice to eat and have been thoroughly satisfied with the food and the wine.
Wow…
I wonder what the AA stands for?
Aggravated A@@shole?
Obviously the writer of this article needs to get out more. This is not a restaurant intending to serve large portions of short ribs and the rib-sticking items of that sort; it is a WINE BAR, an authentic WINE BAR, which means there is a heavy focus is on the wine (hence and extensive list including wines from all over the world and Sonoma County). Is the food good? Yes, its really good, but to judge the quality of the food based on the lack of a real kitchen is absurd. The food is tapas style meant to go with the wine, not be a place to go to gorge yourself till you can’t breathe anymore. TAPAS, learn the word, travel to Spain and other parts of Europe, then maybe you’ll understand the idea of a Tapas and Wine Bar. If you ask me, its something new and refreshing to the Sonoma County dining scene because its not overly priced and overly pretentious; its simple food meant to go with wine.
We went last night…it was great…nice selection of small bites and the wine was nice. This time they had Jazz however they mentioned they will be bringing in a variety of music over the next few months. As a local I have found a new spot!
I am going this Friday.It’s great food, great people and an awesome vibe. As a local, it’s important to support your local community.
The new Affronti will carry on with jazz evenings every Thursday, and jazz brunches on Sunday, as their predecessor Palette Art Cafe initiated. Support jazz — and this promising new restaurant — by showing up.