Blame the can for sardine’s bad rap. Because really, how much respect can you give a fish whose name is synonymous with being cramped and claustrophobic?
But sardines are so much more than those oily little abominations that used to sit on grandma’s shelf. Nutritionists and environmentalists are in agreement that the once-lowly sardine is actually a giant at the table, packed with healthy omega-3s and lower in mercury and other toxins than their larger sea-mates.
In fact, the sardine is becoming something of a cause celeb in the food world, backed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the food network’s Alton Brown, a group calling itself the Sardnistas and even a diet dedicated to the tinned fish.
But the funky fish can be a hard sell to eaters unaccustomed to having their dinner look back at them. Not to mention all the little bones. And the smell.
Previous generations were heartier stock. Prior to the 1950s, sardines
were a household staple much like tuna is today. A victim of its own
popularity, the population was dangerously overfished (Monterey was
home to Cannery Row as Steinbeck fans will recall) and collapsed.
The fish have recovered, however, and are showing up on local tables as
well. Josh Silvers has sardines on the menu at both his restaurants,
Jackson’s Bar & Oven (cooked in the wood stove) and Syrah
(grilled). “I love sardines!” he gushes, ordering me up a plate (and
insisting on watching as a stare them down with trepidation).
The Santa Rosa chef admits that they have a limited following, with
people either loving them or looking on suspiciously. As Silvers deftly
demonstrates how to debone my fish and cast off the head, fascinated
diners look on. “Hmmm. I might have to try that,” says one.
Bistro 29 in Santa Rosa also features Monterey Bay sardines on their menu regularly,
as does Bistro Jeanty in Yountville. Because they’re a seasonal
(usually fished from spring through late fall) watch for them to make a
reappearance in March and April.
So what do they taste like? Fresh sardines are the way to go if you’re
new to the fish. Grilled or roasted, the skin gets crispy and the
tender flesh is well, very oceanic. Meaning kind of fishy, but a taste
that quickly grows on you.
“I’ll say you loved it,” Silvers comments, as I polish off the last of
my trio of roasted sardines. Love is such a strong word. Kind of like
the smell on my hands. I’m willing to consider a second date, however.
READ MORE
A New School of Thought About Sardines: Washington Post
A Flash in the Can: Monterey County Weekly
Fishing for Change: San Francisco Magazine
Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch
WHERE TO BUY
Jackson’s Bar and Oven
Syrah Bistro
Bistro 29
Fresh: Whole Foods
johng notated the ‘denizens’ of the ‘other’ area. i notate that they are dumbizens, not denizens.
Oh, please. First of all, Spellecheck, I suggest you’re the person who badly needs a life if my comment on “mules frites” got your panties in a such big knot. Excuuuuuuuuuuuuuse me, bub, but I found the idea of a fried mule amusing, and thought it was worthy of comment. And shame on you, Heather for calling me a bad apple for that. That’s somewhere between hilarious and offensive, especially if you take a quick tour of the cesspool that is the discussion section of this website, where there is no news story that will not spawn a dozen diatribes about what the denizens consider the twin evils of the world: Mexico and liberalism.
You don’t have to censor me, lady. As Seacrest says, I am out.
It keeps me on my toes.
Just know that I”m getting perilously close to forcing registration for the comments. I don’t really want to, but I feel that I may have hit the tipping point where it is necessary to limit the anonymous bashing.
It’s sad that a few bad apples are ruining it, but I guess that’s the way of the world.
This is the one thing I hate about your blog Heather. People that can’t enjoy a good article about food without picking through it or the comments. Get a life buddy…
I grew up with Nuri Portuguese spiced, sardines. Olive oil, piri pepper, bay leaf, clove, and the thinnest slice of pickle imaginable in San Francisco. None better I defy you. Sadly they seem to not be available north of San Francisco in Sonoma County, where I have made my home these last 22 years! My ten-year-old loves the ones I get from G&G but they are not Nuri or spiced just good Portuguese. On the bad end, cheap, large, sardines,and cut into thirds in the bargain stores. Yikes!
Must just be me, but I have never seen them at Whole Foods. Maybe with the resurgence of popularity and sustainable label we’ll see them more often on ice. How about a discussion on favorite canned versions?
I got mine at whole foods in Santa Rosa
Heather, Thanks for helping these vitamin D packed fish claim their rightful place in a modern health diet. I love seeing them elevated to gourmet foodie status. I too would like to know where we can buy them to cook at home. Restaurant recipes would be a help too. Sardines are much healthier than sun exposure to help boost vitamin D.
Heather, help us out here. Where can a home cook get fresh sardines to roast at home? I’ve been (casually) looking for years but have never see them at any of the local stores. Canned, sure, but fresh?
Not even the French would fry a mule — at least I hope not.
Perhaps you meant Moules Frites.
Jackson’s is fantstic! I had the mussels yesterday with the chili cumin fries – best I’ve had in Sonoma Co. for ‘Mules Frites’ lovers.