Friday, May 9th, 2008
Though the look and feel is still very much the same as the old HBG–casual inside tables, t-shirted waitrons and kids running around the bocce ball court outside–the menu has been elevated to haute burger status.
Starts include a very grown up mac ‘n cheese with Fiscalini, Parmigianno-Reggiano and Hobb’s bacon, lobster bisque and the sweet-tangy Alexander Valley gourmet pickles. Three types of cracker-thin pizzas are handmade to order, from a simple margherita to the tony goat cheese, arugula, caramelized onion and portobello-topped.
What you’re really there for, of course, are the HBG burgers, which are some of the best BiteClub’s had in, well, at least a few weeks. With the Cyrus crew in charge, there’s a pedigree to every ingredient (quel surprise). All that matters to your tastebuds is that they’re juicy, tasty and nicely pink on the middle without being raw or greasy. And at $7.75 (that’s before you add all the fancy pants toppers like Rogue Creamery blue cheese), about the cheapest thing on the menu. As long as you’re indulging, though, the truffle oil fries make the meal, dipped in a side of creamy horseradish and roasted garlic mayo.
Save a little room for the Brownie Surprise, bite-sized chunks of rich chocolate brownies swimming in a fudgy pudding. What’s the surprise? It comes with jazz hands, according to our server. Your results may vary.
Sticker shock can be a bit steep, considering the $10 mac ‘n cheese, $12 pizza and a $15.50 seared tuna sandwich (though worth every bit of the pricetag). This is Cyrus-quality fare, after all. The prices don’t seem to be scaring off crowds who are already
waiting upwards of 30 minutes for a table.
Fortunately, they’ve brought over a few Cyrus-inspired cocktails (the Wonka Drop and Mango Mai Tai) as well as a impressive wine list to keep folks relaxed and happy. And hungry for those truffle oil fries.
Healdsburg Bar and Grill, 245 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 433-3333.