Using a two-step barrel aging process, the spirited folks making Sonoma’s own Hooker’s House Bourbon import the good stuff from Kentucky distilleries, then age it in hand-picked pinot noir barrels for a flavor that’s entirely unique. The four-year-old bourbon “finished” for nine months imparting subtle wine and oak flavors and nuances. According to creator Fred Groth of HelloCello/Prohibition Spirits, the result is deep flavors of coffee, caramel, black cherry, vanilla and baking spices.

So what’s with the name? Let’s turn our history books back a page to General Joseph Hooker, a Civil War veteran best known for his love of stiff drinks and friendly ladies. Hooker’s House Bourbon refers to the handsome soldier’s Sonoma home and is also, of course, a cheeky reference to the frisky gals Hooker brought along during some of his military campaigns to raise morale among the men. Among other things. These agreeable ladies became known as “Hooker’s Brigade” and later, just “Hookers”.

At 100-proof there’s not doubt this is one stiff drink. Just the way the captain would have wanted it.

Available through Prohibition Spirits locally at Bottle Barn, 3331 Industrial Drive  Santa Rosa, 528-1161, $36.

More than a bar. Less than a Tweet-Up. It’s Epic Social Bar & Lounge.

Housed in the former Stir/Barcode space on Mendocino Avenue in Santa Rosa, this wired lounge is serving up more than just libations. The idea, according to owner Bruce Le (his family has owned several Asian eateries in town) is to create an IRL social networking space. Well, that and get your groove on.

The narrow bar has been opened up with the addition of several bar tables and white leather bar chairs in the front and a grouping of cozy lounges in the back. The front wall now features an abstract grid-like painting Le describes as “networks”. Open to interpretation.

On the menu, mixologist Aaron Gallo serves up drinks like “The Social Network”, a blue and white cocktail make with vodka; the PopStar, a martini drink with pop rocks and a margarita spiked with serrano chilis.

Teaming up with fellow newcomer, Thai Time, the bar will served nibbles from the next door restaurant.

Sunday through Tuesday, Le plans to have live acoustic sets in the evening, and late night karaoke on selected weeknights, along with rainbow-friendly Absolut nights. The rest of the week, expect a mix of Top 40 and DJ mixes, with dancing later in the evening.   Happy hour is 3-6pm daily, with a reverse happy hour from 10pm to midnight Sunday through Thursday. Epic.

Epic Social Bar & Lounge, 404 Mendocino Ave #D, Santa Rosa, 583-7885. epicsr.com.

Tequila Flight at La Rosa in Santa Rosa

Just about everyone has a tequila story, and it usually doesn’t end well. I still have a dent in my forehead that was a direct result of face-planting on a wood deck after 14 shots. Synonymous with spring break, beaches, youthful indiscretions, and the Jersey Shore crew doing doing body shots, it’s gotten a bit of a bad rap.

But as Cinco de Mayo approaches, it’s worth taking a second look at this complex and oft-maligned nectar of the agave plant, along with its cousins Mezcal and Sotol.  Not just for blending in margaritas anymore, well-crafted tequilas can be smooth enough for sipping and sampling straight up with some adult restraint.

Tequila 101
Tequila is a Mexican spirit that, like French champagne, can only be called tequila if it comes from a particular region — usually the state of Jalisco in central Mexico. Within that area are highlands and lowlands where the Blue Weber agave plant grows (the only type used for tequila), each  imparting a unique flavor. Though the spiny shrub looks like a cactus, it is actually a yucca and takes up to 15 years to mature. The plants are harvested, then baked and finally distilled into tequila.

Do you know your blanco from your anejo? Like many spirits, tequila comes in a variety of styles, from unaged blanco (usually called labeled as “silver”) to reposado (rested), anejo (aged) and extra anejo (long-aged).

Experts describe the blanco as the most piquant of the group, the purest expression of the agave plant which goes into steel tanks and never sees oak. Most aged tequilas are put into oak barrels previously used for bourbon for one to five years. The barrels impart oaky, vanilla flavors as well as color.  Anejo is typically aged between six months and a year, giving it a light caramel color and slightly smoother flavor. Aged tequilas can be much darker in color, and get a creamier, oaken quality from the amount of contact they have with the wood.

Mezcal
A smokier cousin to tequila, mezcal typically comes from the Oaxaca region of Mexico. And yes, its the spirit with the worm in it. In fact, it’s not actually a worm, but the larvae of a moth that likes to feed on agave, it’s sometimes put into a bottle to suggest that alcohol content is high enough to preserve the larvae. Historically it was thought to have magical healing properties.

Unlike tequila, for mezcal, the agave plant is roasted in the ground before distillation, giving the resulting spirit a smoky, earthy quality. Often made in small, artisanal batches (and rarely making it out of the Mexican market), mezcal is finally getting its due as higher quality varieties emerge on the American market.

Sotol
Almost unknown in the US, Sotol is a related spirit commonly from Chihuahua made from a wild agave plant known as Dasylirion or Desert Spoon. Cooked and distilled similarly to mezcal, the flavor tends to be smoother than tequila.

Where to get it locally
La Rosa Tequileria & Grill: The recently-opened cantina in downtown Santa Rosa has about 160 different tequilas. Co-owner Darren Chapple credits growing up in San Diego (just over the border from Tijuana) and his longtime employment in Mexican restaurants with his passion for tequila. “It’s just a growing trend, and is definitely my drinking choice,” he said. He and his staff hand-pick each of the tequilas carried at the restaurant, with a number of rarer, high-end tequilas along with a wide variety of more affordable tequilas. His take on blended margaritas? “We do them, but they’re better on the rocks,” And on salt and lime with a shot?. “It just covers up the flavor,” he said.

Try one of four specialty flights that range between $13 and $27, taking sippers through various regions and agings, along with a high-end tasting of “big dog” tequilas Clase Azula Plata, DeLeon Reposado and Don Julio 1942. The Smokey, a margarita made with both tequila and mezcal ($9) is a favorite as well.

Mezcal Tasting at Traverso’s: On May 5, Traverso’s will host a Mezcal tasting with Del Maguey owner Ron Cooper. One of the most popular brands of Mezcal, Del Maguey bottles small production spirits in remote villages. Each of the bottles bears the name of the village where it is produced. The event takes place from 7-9pm at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek Hotel, reservations are required. Info, (707) 542-2530 or info@traversos.com.

Benesin Mezcal: Santa Rosan Efrain Nolasco, a native of Oaxaca, imports small batch mezcal, which is certified organic. You can find it at liquor retailers in Sonoma County.

Tres Hombres Longbar and Grill: With more than 100 different tequilas, this Petaluma restaurant features a specialized club for serious tequila drinkers and several tequila dinners each year. Members of the club reach various levels by sampling different tequilas, and getting special incentives. 151 Petaluma Blvd. S., Suite 129, Petaluma, 773-4500.

Maya Restaurant: In the heart of downtown Sonoma, this Mexican restaurant offers a temple of tequila with more than 100 specialty tequilas, from the pricy Don Julio to more affordable Patron and Cabo Wabo. 101 E Napa St., Sonoma, 935-3500.

Have a favorite tequila or a local spot (uh, no, not your backyard) you like to sip? Tell us.

Thus, with guests on the road, the fog burning off, and a small vat of lavender simple syrup in the fridge, I tooled around with the idea of a lavender-infused Gimlet. If you like odd factoids from history, spend a few minutes reading about the history of the Gimlet at the Thinking of Drinking blog. For our purposes, the salient facts are that (a) the Gimlet, named eponymously for a British naval surgeon in the 1860s, Dr. Gimlette, was invented as a means to get sailors in the Royal Navy to ingest their ration of lime juice, and thereby to prevent scurvy; (b) the historical use of the Rose’s Lime Cordial dates to the same period, when Lauchlan Rose invented Rose’s Lime as a means of preserving the citrus juice for long journeys without the use of alcohol. (One can infer the history of the derogative “Limey” easily enough from there.) You have to love the British sense of irony: Mr. Rose patents a means of preserving lime juice for sailors without the use of alcohol, and a Royal Naval surgeon simultaneously invents a cocktail with which to get sailors to drink it.

Long and sundry is the list of arguments and citations to the effect that a Gimlet must contain Rose’s, but I can’t agree, and I think the argument stops here: The modern-day Rose’s is no longer the same stuff as it was in 1867 (it now includes natural flavors other than lime, artificial preservatives, and – in the US, where I would buy mine – high fructose corn syrup in lieu of sugar). The other thing about Rose’s is, well, it’s kind of disgusting, a bit like the liquid that squirts out of those ill-considered gums and candies my middle daughter is so inconceivably enamored of.

Since Rose’s is basically just sweetened lime juice with preservatives, and since I’m not subject to the uncertainties of 19th century refrigeration technology, I figured, how hard can it be to make a proper lime cordial from fresh lime juice? Equal parts lavender simple syrup and freshly squeezed lime juice (which I passed through a strainer for seeds and pulp), and voila, a fresh, homemade, lavender-infused lime cordial. Mix with an equal part of your favorite gin or vodka for a Gimlet, or add soda water and serve over ice for a quasi-Rickey, and garnish with sprigs of mint, fresh lavender, a lime peel, and a straw, if it’s watered down and over ice. Whichever way go, the perfume of the lavender really plays off of herbal aromatics of the gin, and the limes speak for themselves; you just can’t go wrong.

Lavender Gimlet

1. Mix about a quarter-cup of equal parts fresh-squeezed limed juice and chilled lavender simple syrup with your favorite gin. I like Sapphire, as I find it less assertive than some gins, so if you like a more pronounced herbaciousness, try something like Junipero. (Gin, more than most liquors, varies greatly in style from brand to brand, so it really comes down to personal preference.)
2. For a straight up Gimlet, shake over ice and strain into martini glass or tumbler.
3. Or, add 1/2 to 1 cup of water – plain or sparkling (the latter making something like a Ricky) – and serve over ice in a high ball glass or, as I’ve done here, with the cut up limes in a mason jar. This version is highly recommended for a warm weekend afternoon, and would be well-suited to a by-the-pitcher version. I also made a version of the watered-down, over-ice and cut-limes version with Hanger 1 vodka – maybe not quite as interesting or complex as the gin version, but an outstanding cocktail in its own right.

Kampai. Drink copiously when possible, and always responsibly.

Ginger Not Maryann Cocktail

So maybe she was a little high maintenance. And not exactly a rocket scientist. And slightly manipulative. But Ginger was always ready for her red carpet moment — unlike someone who was just a little too old to be wearing pigtails and short shorts (even if it was a desert island). Relive those breathless moments of redheaded Tina Louise-dom with a fiery-sweet cocktail that’ll leave you as blinky-eyed as Miss Ginger.

Ginger not Mary Ann Cocktail

adapted from Ryan Horen, Bar Manager, Jackson’s Bar and Oven

Bro Mosa: The Dude's Answer to the Mimosa

Dude Drink of the Week: Monti’s answer to the Mimosa.
Vodka + beer = A fighting chance at seeing Sex & The City 2 tonight.
Serve in an 8-10 oz “bucket”” glass. Wearing as little as possible for optimal effect.

The Bro Mosa
3/4 oz Smirnoff Vodka
2/3 full glass w/ PBR*
1/3 remaining glass w/OJ

Garnish with an Orange Wedge
From Monti’s Rotisserie
714 Village Court
Santa Rosa, CA 95405
p: 707.568.4404

Sunday Brunch 10:30 – 2:00
Sunday – Thursday 11:30 – 9:00
Friday – Saturday: 11:30 – 10:00

Where to go for tequila in Petaluma? Tres Hombres.

151 Petaluma Boulevard South
Petaluma, CA 94952
(707) 773-4500

Make no mistake, however, that doesn’t mean you won’t find some classy nouveau rustic dishes at the Bistro with Bousquet’s signature all over them: Frog’s Legs Provencal ($13), Sweet Breads with Fries, Lamb Neck ($12)  and Cassoulet.

A few best bets: Duck liver mousse, house cured salmon, trout rillettes (3 for $12 on the charcuterie menu); a lush, sweet onion soup ($9); Sole Mueniere with roasted potatoes ($15), mussels ($12).

Bistro M has a full bar with an beefy wine list and will be serving Sunday brunch from 10am to 8pm, lunch and dinner 11:30am to 9pm Monday through Saturday.

Bistro M, 610 McClelland Drive, Windsor, 707-838-3118. www.thebistrom.com

UPDATE: A year after opening, Jackson’s remains the soul of the square, always -crowded and always-solid. I rarely return to a restaurant twice (there are just too many I haven’t tried), but this is a spot I take friends and family frequently when I’m “off duty” and want a great meal at a reasonable price.

+++
Occupying the critical hub spot at Fourth and Davis (left so long empty after the departure of Mixx), Jackson’s Bar and Oven flickered to life in 2009, casting its warm glow throughout the neighborhood like an Edward Hopper painting.

And with it, the soul of Railroad Square was renewed.

Jackson’s Bar & Oven is the second eatery for Chef Josh Silvers, who heads the 10-year-old Syrah Bistro just a block away.  Personality-wise, the restaurants share Josh’s sense of playfulness and unpretentious way with food.

But while Syrah will remain Silvers’ higher-end showcase for Wine Country cuisine, Jackson’s is a more casual, family-friendly spot focused on dishes from the kitchen’s wood-fired oven.

In other words, everyday food like chili, hot wings, pizza and hot dogs — but with a chef’s touch.

Get a ring-side seat to the action at the back pizza bar, where things stay plenty warm when you’re within arm’s reach of the 600-plus degree oven.

Top bites: Start with house-made focaccia with green olive tapenade ($3.50) and Josh’s hot oysters with hazelnut butter ($3 each).  A fry-fanatic, Josh’s fresh fried potatoes (chili, garlic or paprika) require liberal dipping in cilantro, lemon/thyme or sherry-cayenne aoili ($6).

Roasted mussels with fennel, garlic, onion and beer come piled high and steaming from the oven with a luxuriously briny liquor that bring a tear to the eye and are well-priced at $11.

Cool off with a specialty cocktail from the bar (where you can also grab a bite), including the Ginger Not Mary Ann ($9) made with Charbay Meyer Lemon, galangal, lemon grass syrup, fresh lemon and soda. The menu also includes plenty of artisan beers, wines by the glass and lots of local Sonoma wines by the bottle.

Pizzas range from simple margherita ($14) to proscuitto with mascarpone, pear and arugula ($15), mixed mushroom with truffle oil, daily specials and even a gluten-free version.  And while impressive, they’ll need a little more time to nail the cracker-crisp crust I’m so fond of at Rosso and PizzaVino707. Which in my mind just means I’ll have to keep testing them…frequently.

For bigger appetites, there are entrees like grilled hanger steak ($19), roasted chicken, pork chops with grits and pan-seared sea bass. Since the restaurant will be open daily for lunch and dinner, Josh also has a selection of sandwiches (Rueben, burgers, hot dog with house-made chips), salads and soups.

Desserts rotate frequently, but the menu-winner are seasonal beignets — crispy fritters of dough with dunking sauces of caramel, chocolate, pumpkin, raspberry or whatever’s of the moment.

Silvers plans to keep the restaurant open from 11am to 10pm daily, with a special late-night menu at the bar and brunch on the weekends.

Welcome to the neighborhood.

Jackson’s Bar & Oven, 135 Fourth Street, Santa Rosa, 707-545-6900.

But cosmopolitans and chocotinis are so last fall. Taking advantage of the summer’s bounty of fresh fruit, herbs and vegetables (yes, veggies!), creative bartenders are creating of-the-moment cocktails that both satisfy and quench. Here’s a sampling of what’s on the menu.

Artful cocktails…
Bloody Mary:  An abundance of summer tomatoes was all the incentive Chef Thaddeus Palmese of Starlight Wine Bar needed to create his own Bloody Mary mix. He first roasts fresh tomatoes, the adds garlic, onion, celery, homemade Worshteshire sauce, lemon juice, fresh horseradish, his own Creole seasoning and a bit of chipotle for heat. Palmese’s version gets blended with a Soju, a distilled Korean spirit. 6761 Sebastopol Ave # 600, Sebastopol, 823-1943,

Summer Thyme (see image, left): The name says it all — a crisp, refreshing signature cocktail from Healdsburg’s Cyrus restaurant that brings together thyme-meyer lemon lemoncello, gin, lemon juice, herb-infused simple syrup, cucumbers, sunflower petals and seltzer. Like many of Cyrus’ wildly adventurous recipes, it’s possible to try at home (recipe at the end of this article), but much more satisfying to get from the source –unless you’ve got sliced cucumbers, sunflower petals and thyme-infused simple syrup just sitting in your fridge.

Margarita: Tequila’s a natch for hot, sticky summer weather. The Starkida Partida Margarita at Stark’s Steakhouse mixes Partida Reposado, agave syrup, orange liquor and lime. Plus, it has a built-in tipsy tester: If you can’t say the name, it’s time to switch to coffee. Also summery is their Mary, Mary Strawberry, mixing vodka, lemon juice, fresh strawberries and soda water. Dangerous as it is delish. 521 Adams St., Santa Rosa, 576-9610.

Blackberry Smokestack: Jack & Tony’s has another take on tequila, muddling up fresh blackberries, Hornitos Resposado tequila, elder flower liqueur, agave nectar, grapefruit and lime juice. Grab a whiskey and soda from their vast collection of rare and unusual bottles, while you’re there. 115 4th St., Santa Rosa, 526-4347.

Graton Sunrise: Adjourn to the back porch of Graton’s favorite summer hang-out, the Underwood Bar & Bistro for this quirky quencher made with Hangar One Buddah Hand Citrus Vodka, housemade sweet & sour mix, Campari in a sugar-rimmed glass. 9113 Graton Rd., Graton, 823-7023.

Watermelon Basil Cooler: Creative cocktailing happens almost nightly at Barndiva throughout the summer. The man with a thousand and one recipes is Spencer Simmons, who makes use of tasty seasonal produce and top-shelf liquors in his concoctions. Head out to the patio for a cooler made with fresh muddled watermelon, white rum, Sauvignon Blanc (this is Wine Country, after all), ginger liqueur, a sprig of fresh basil and a squeeze of lemon. If gin’s more your style, Simmons is also doing a Prickly Pear Puree with gin, peach bitters, lemon soda and a hint of rosemary.  231 Center St., 431-0100.

DIY...
Scott Beattie, the author of Artisanal Cocktails and the creator of many of Cyrus restaurant’s most unique drinks, says he has the perfect basic recipe for any summer drink. Start with 1.5 ounces of liquor (tequila and rum are obvious summer choices), add 3/4 of an ounce of juice (think citrus), and 1/2 ounce simple syrup (a boiled mixture of 2 parts sugar and one part water). Then start getting creative. Infuse the syrup with herbs (mint, lemon). Muddle in berries or other fresh fruit, then round it all out with soda water for a little fizz. But whatever you do, says Beattie, make it fresh. “Using better products just makes a better drink,” he said.

On the simpler side…
Pina Coladas: Gather up the family and spend the day poolside at the Rio Nido Roadhouse sipping pina coladas, mai tais and strawberry daiquiris. Tucked beneath a redwood grove near the Russian River, the roadhouse blender runs non-stop during the summer. Stay for the eclectic bands who jamming most weekend evenings on the outdoor stage. 14540 Canyon Two, Rio Nio, 869-0821.

Lillet: Less cocktail and more wine, Lillet is a fortified French apertif made with white or red wine and a hint of orange liqueur. Best served over ice, with a slice of lemon, it’s an easy-to-make patio sipper. Available at Traverso’s, 2097 Stagecoach Rd., Santa Rosa, 542-2530.  

Rose Wine: It goes without saying that a little chilled pink wine can be the life of any barbecue or picnic. But, oh, what to choose? Ranging in hue from barely salmon to strawberry pink, roses can be range from fruity to sweet to tart. A few to try: Quivira’s 2008 Grenache Rose, Wine Creek Ranch;  Toad Hollow’s Eye of the Toad Rose; J Vineyards Vin Gris Rose of Pinot Noir.

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Recipe
Summer Thyme: Cyrus Restaurant

3/4 oz. Thyme-Meyer Lemoncello

3/4 oz Plymouth Gin

3/4 oz Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice

1/2 oz Thyme Simple Syrup

3/4 oz Seltzer

Sliced Lemon Cucumbers

Sliced Armenian Cucumbers

Sunflower Petals

 
Mix all ingredients in a cocktail shaker and serve over ice.

Thyme-Meyer Lemoncello
Peel 10-15 Meyer Lemons into a large container with a vegetable peeler- make sure the spray of the lemon is faced down into the container so the natural oils of the lemon don’t escape. Add 1 bottle of vodka (Cyrus recommends 100 proof Smirnoff), or neutral grain spirit, and seal the container so it’s airtight.

 Keep in a cool place for three weeks. Strain the peels, and add a sprig of fresh thyme. Reseal the container for an additional 2 days. Strain out the thyme (we use a cheesecloth for this to remove all the stems). Add 1 pint of simple syrup. Close the container for one more week.

The Lemoncello adds a special texture and viscosity- If making it at home seems a little daunting, then buying one at a liquor store would work just as well. Loft Organic Lemoncello has an excellent line of different flavored Lemoncellos that would be delicious in this drink.

Thyme Simple Syrup
3 cups Sugar

3 cups Water

2 bunches thyme – roughly chopped.

Bring sugar and water to a boil. Remove from heat and add fresh thyme and cover.  Let sit overnight.  Strain.

This cocktail is available at Cyrus during the month of July and it’s particularly interesting to note that the thyme, lemon and Armenian cucumbers and sunflowers used in the cocktail are from Chef Douglas Keane and wife Lael’s farm.