Eggs On the Menu
Mar15

Eggs On the Menu

According to culinary lore, the number of folds on a chef’s toque — that tall pleated hat most French chefs wear — signify the number of ways he can cook an egg. The best have up to 100, but even lowly staff have a repertoire of dozens. If you think about it, eggs play a role in everything from traditional baking to modern molecular cuisine. They bind, raise, flavor, emulsify. But more than that, they have a symbolic...

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20 Bucks, 3 Ingredients, 1 Fancy-Pants Meal
Apr18

20 Bucks, 3 Ingredients, 1 Fancy-Pants Meal

The same cold that inspired The Great Pudding Experiment and kept my youngest home from school last week saw fit to share its wealth of fever and snot with the rest of the family over the weekend. One thing you have to give the common cold, it’s egalitarian in its distribution, a regular Communist Manifesto for low grade viruses. My eldest daughter – along with me, this week’s guest of honor in the Kerson family...

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New Year’s Eve: Serve This, Get Lucky

December 30th: Even if you procrastinate as pervasively as I do, even if you’re still hunting around for a clever New Year’s Eve idea at T-24 hours and counting, I’m still going to figure that you’ve already thought of Champagne and caviar, and probably oysters and chocolate to boot. Indeed, Google Trends confirms it: Internet traffic containing either the word “caviar” or “Champagne”...

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A Nicoise Salad in Winter, and The Rules

Perhaps Will Shakespeare lived in Northern California and craved a salad in winter when he spoke of those days, green in judgment and cold in blood; or maybe I’m just projecting because, as recently as yesterday, I was talking about this salad I had made, borne of winter crops, which still I took to be a very-nearly-classic Salade Nicoise, but for the outrage of tomatoes in absentia, and it got me thinking: What, really,...

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A Salade Nicoise in Winter

The degree to which this – a Salade Nicoise, sans tomates – is, in fact, a Nicoise salad remains debatable. What is incontrovertible is that, while I won’t eat out-of-season tomatoes, I’m not waiting around until next summer for the league leader in salads-as-meals, and this, my Jack Frost version extant, still tastes damn good. But first: If I’m to degrade a classic, what, precisely, defines the...

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