Xcena’s Perogies: A Divine Affair
Friday, May 15th, 2009
What crab feeds are to Northern California, pierogi dinners are to Ohio. Instead of cracking Dungeness with a nice glass of chardonnay, we Buckeyes look forward to heapin’ helpings of cheese, sauerkraut and potato-stuffed dumplings sauteed in butter and onions. Washed down with a side of Dr. Pepper.
Mother Nature may provide the bounty of crab. But in good Eastern European families, it’s somebody’s mother making the pierogi (or perogies) – a tradition of rolled dough and savory stuffing that’s passed down from generation to generation.
In Healdsburg, it’s Mother Xcena who’s the force behind A Divine Affair’s handmade Ukranian style dumplings ($16) filled with either potatoes and cheese, slow roast pork, oxtail or sauerkraut. Daughter (and owner) Kahleen Nowak’s mans the stove, pan searing them with plenty of butter and onions — an upscale version of my Ohio favorite. Decorated with little ribbons of sour cream. Oh joy.
These rustic little pillows of deliciousness are a taste of home — no matter where you’re from.
Eastern European classics, however, are only part of the menu. Kahleen does a very beety borscht with local beets, wilted cabbage and
smoked ham hocks, but her rotating menu also includes game
hen, flank steak, duck breast and lunchtime panini and her own fresh-baked breads. Check out the menu
A Divine Affair is open for lunch (11:30am to 2:30pm) and dinner (5:30pm to 9pm) Wednesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch on their back patio starting at 11:30am and dinner until 5pm. 330 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707.433.1035.