Bovolo | Healdsburg
Monday, February 26th, 2007
I know of a singular cure for rainy Mondays: The prospect of a good, slow-cooked lunch. If it includes wine or hot chocolate, all the better. Both, and suddenly it feels like…at least a Wednesday afternoon.
Bovolo is the grab-a-bite comfort food walk-up of Zazu’s John Stewart and Duskie Estes. And though it’s been around for nearly two years, it’s hard not to find something reassuring on the menu every time–like John’s Black Pig salumi (an array of house-cured meats that make their way into many of the dishes); the couple’s signature pork cheek sandwich (slow cooked and hearty enough to keep you full for days); a simple goat cheese and crimini pizza or a nutty quinoa salad with pine nuts and currants.
Daily specials reflect the seasons, like a sloppy pulled pork sandwich with vinegar and caramelized onions on a chewy bun on a wintry February day. Call it the five-napkin lunch. Summer brings luscious produce from local farms made into crisp, cool salads perfect for nibbling on the outdoor deck.
And though there are, from time to time, some missteps, like the yummy-sounding, but too-much-of-a-good-thing Coo-coo frites (fried dough with mozzarella and salumi), sticking with the basics (pork, pork, pork) is always a good bet.
Taking advantage of their Plaza Farms neighbors, Bovolo offers an impressive variety of local wines (by the glass and otherwise) as well as a Scharffen Berger hot chocolate and hand-made gelato sandwiches dipped in Scharffen Berger chocolate.
Prices, though well-in line with Healdsburg’s luxe-status, can get a little steep (sandwiches range between $8.50 and $10), especially if you add in a salad or a glass of wine. But hey, what’s your sanity worth. Especially on Monday.
Bovolo, 106 Matheson St., Plaza Farms, Healdsburg, 707.431.2962. Open Monday through Thursday 9am to 6pm. Friday through Sunday, 9am to 9pm. Bovolo and Zazu both have a variety of special events monthly. Next up, a wine dinner at Zazu featuring the wines of Limerick Lane, March 5. Check www.zazurestaurant.com for details.
Plus-A new take-out spot, Supper, is set to open soon in the constantly-evolving marketplace. Stay tuned.