Friday, April 30th, 2010
Chef Mateo Granados is behind the range of the next big thing in Wine Country: A pop-up eatery devoted to modern Yucatan cuisine. In a barn. In a vineyard.
And that’s all I can tell you.
Because I definitely don’t want anyone to know the Dry Creek supper club location is actually an unused wine warehouse where Mateo and his crew load in an entire kitchen (range, prep tables and food) twice a week in preparation for feeding 40+ diners.
With no markings or signs to the spot, the hand-written menu board inside the barn becomes a natural gathering spot, with folks conspiratorially congratulating themselves for being in on the secret with sniffing the meaty smells from the kitchen.
Once you’ve gotten your bearings, there’s plenty of assistance available to decipher exotic cooking terms and ingredients sourced almost
entirely from small-scale local farmers. The menu changes up as frequently as the guest list, but the concept remains the same: Mateo’s
tried-and-true family recipes given a Wine Country facelift. Hailing from the Yucatan peninsula, his dishes combine influences from Spain and
the ancient Mayans to compliment the produce and meats of Sonoma County.
Chew on this recent offering: Oaxacan green corn savory atole (a sort of corn porridge) with Spring ranch eggs, and roasted asparagus; spring
garlic soup with ancho chili and house-cured pork belly; grilled fava bean salad with Full Circle ciabatta, Bohemian Creamy Romero cheese and
balsamic vinegar; Salmon Creek Ranch duck chiccaron with strawberry rhubarb salsa fresca and Mayan tortilla; Bolinas halibut with El Yuca
aoili; and local rabbit and quail with favas.
The deets: Meals are served restaurant-style (meaning waitstaff take your order and bring your plates to you). Guest chefs sometimes show up
to help in the kitchen, but you’re just as likely to find local chefs and cooks of all stripes sitting across from you at the table (they’re
especially keen on sharing tastes). Drinks are strictly BYOB, along with glassware), so bring a bottle to share, and don’t skimp because you’ll also likely be sitting next to a few winemakers cracking out their wares. Expect to get to know your table-mates. Chances are they’re as giddy to be here are you are. Kids are welcome to join in.
At the end of the night, everything’s packed up and carted away, leaving behind nothing but the million-dollar vineyard views.
But I’ve said too much. The rest is up to you to figure out.
Tendejon de la Calle, weekly on Wednesday and Thursday evenings from 5pm
until dusk. Invites available only by email list or by calling
623.5474. Entrees $16-$19 each, appetizers $8-$12. Cash and local checks
only. BYOB and glasses